Jules Marchaland konnte mit seiner Erstbegehung „Le bruit de l’acid“ gleich auch noch, falls die Schwierigkeit bestätigt wird, seine erste 9b-Route überhaupt klettern. Die Route befindet sich im französischen Klettergebiet „Claret“.
Lucien Martinez machte ihn auf dieses Projekt aufmerksam, welches Jules gerne annahm.
When @lumartinez_93 told me about this project, I immediately wanted to check it out. And, unsurprisingly, I loved it straight away. The crux is a mega cross dyno into a good pinch, exactly what I love. I’d never tired a hard route that suited me as well. No « bla-bla », with hard boulder problems and no rest.
After more than 20 falls at the dyno and 4 falls at the last « eazy » boulder problem I finally send this route which occupied my mind for some time.
The route consists of a 7C+ approach into a bad rest and then 2 boulders problems, an 8B into a 7C+ which become hard in endurance. You basically can’t chalk for 25 moves.
We first thought it would be a hard 9A+. But after a lot of struggle on this crux move I started to doubt and it turned out to be way harder than I thought. This route is much more in my style than any routes I’ve ever tried. And for sure harder than the 9a+’s I’ve done. This is why I grade it as a 9b. I hope it will motivate people to come and try it.
Huuuuuge thanks to @lumartinez_93 , @sebbouin and the local climbers for the warm welcome.
Thanks to my g @yu_shoot for his great work
Foto: (c) Yulen Calleja Ordiz