Der Pole Lukasz Dudek kann sich mit der Rope-Solo Begehung von „Bellavista“ (XI-/8c) einen Traum erfüllen. Nach Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, den Pou Brüdern und Heli Kotter. War es die erst 7. freie Begehung der Route überhaupt.
Das vierzig Meter ausladende gewaltigen Baur-Dach an der Westlichen Zinne wurde 1968 als einer der Höhepunkte des Direttissima von Gerhard Baur zusammen mit den Brüdern Walter und Erich Rudolph erstbegangen. Im Jahr 2007 kletterte Alex Huber konnte durch die einzige Schwachstelle dieses Daches an der Westlichen Zinne frei klettern und er hinterließ mit „Pan Aroma“ (9 Seillängen – 7b, 6c, 6a+, 6c+, 7a+, 8b+ (60m, 7 BH), 8c (20m, 4 BH), 6c, 6c+, dann weiter über Cassin.) eine der damals, wie heute, schwierigsten Alpinen Touren in den Alpen. Die Kletterei ist dabei noch steiler und athletischer, als seine benachbarte Route „Bellavista“ (8b+/X+), die damals noch 8c/XI- schwer war. Das dürfte nach Aussage des Erstbegehers Alex Huber einfach daran liegen, da die entscheidenden Griffe seit der Erstbegehung vergrößert wurden.
„It all started in 2015. Together with my friend Jacek Matuszek, we created Alpine Wall Tour
Team. Our goal was to repeat the most difficult multi-pitches alpine routes. One of them
were Bellavista and Project fear which have some common pitches with Pan Aroma. We
Earlier this year, I decided to climb Pan Aroma alone. As part of the preparations, I started
making several dozen of solo rope ascent in Polish Jura up to 8c grade.
Last year I lead Tortour 8c (270m) rope solo which is located on the southwest face of
Schartenspitze in Austria.
This year I was in the Dolomites on 3 trips. I invited my friend Piotrek Deska to cooperate
with me to take a photo report of my climbing. So, during the first trip, we worked 3 days in
a row. We put fixing ropes on the wall and took pictures as we wanted.
I went on my next trip alone, except on the first day. Piotr joined me on his return from his
holidays because he wanted to correct some of the shots. When my friend went home, I
could only focus on climbing. I was making progress every day and as I returned home, I
knew that on the next trip I would be prepared to send whole route.
On the final trip, I was able to lead Pan aroma on the first day.
I started climbing around 9 am because I wanted to be under the most difficult part around
12. At noon, the air temperature is at its highest. Thanks to this, I was able to have warm
fingers and not be pumped arms too quickly. I want to climb without any pressure, so I
treated this attempt as a working one. Luckily, I lead all the pitches on the first attempt.
After 17 hours of climbing, at 2 am I was on the top of Cima Ovest.
It was totally crazy project. This ascent is a summary of what I have learned in these 20 years
of my climbing activity. It is a combination of hard sports and mountain climbing,
complicated equipment logistics and newly discovered solo climbing. It was my biggest
challenge in my life. I feel that I am completely fulfilled as a climber.“
Łukasz Dudek in Pan Aroma. Photos: (c) Piotrek Deska.