Der Italiener Niccolò „Niky“ Ceria kann sich die 4. Begehung des von Barfusskletterer Charles Albert erstbegangenen Boulder „La Révolutionnaire“ (8C+) holen. Der Italiener ist nach Ryohei Kameyama und Simon Lorenzi, der dritte Kletterer dem eine Wiederholung dieses Boulders am Trois Pignons im Sektor Gros Sablons in Fontainebleau gelingt.
I had a lot of fun on this one. I used to try it just before the resting days. The movements (most of them very enjoyable) are all about tension and the line doesn’t require too much logistics or skin; it was the perfect boulder where to go to disconnect my brain from the lines I have in mind.
The quietness of the area was a plus that made me choose to come back here after having climbed “Bibop”.
There were some (at least for me) doubts regarding the starting holds. I first did it from a version which is a mix between the old (2016) and the new (2017) starting position. This was to me the logical place where to start the sequence. The latest starting position of Charles Albert (first ascensionist of both versions) was apparently out of reach for my size. I managed to figure out two betas from the hold he used, but I couldn’t physically fit my body into the narrow hole at the bottom.
Some days ago I came back to Gros Sablons and I opted to play on the proper start once again. I figured out a slightly different heel hook placement: half cm a bit more to the left. This was a little change that made my body fit into the hole without touching all the rocks around.“