Und wieder konnte sich eine nervenstarke Frau eine Begehung von „Prinzip Hoffnung“ X/X+ (8b/+) bzw. E9/10 an der Bürser Platte in Vorarlberg (Österreich) holen. Nach Barbara Zangerl, Nadine Wallner und der Britin Madeleine „Maddy“ Cope, gelang nun Lena Marie Müller, die schon vierte weibliche Rotpunktbegehung der Route. Ganz „nebenbei“ konnte sich auch Lena Maries Kletterpartner Johannes die Route ebenfalls punkten.

Bei der Route „Prinzip Hoffnung“ handelt es sich um eine der berühmtesten Trad-Routen Europas. Die Route hatte Beat Kammerlander von nun fast zehn Jahren im Jahr 2009 durchstiegen. Bisher erlebte die extrem kleingriffige Route erst zwölf Begehungen, darunter Alex Luger, Jacopo Larcher, Fabi Buhl, Babsi Zangerl, Michael Gunsilius, Christian Bindhammer, Nemuel Feurle, Michi Wohlleben, Nadine Wallner, Madeleine Cope und Lena Marie Müller holen. Begehungen sind durch die sonnenausgesetzte kleingriffige Wand eigentlich nur im Winter bei kaltten Temperaturen möglich.

„A dream come true! I have so much to say about this route and the process, but now I first have to let it sink in!  @johannes.ingrisch for our shared journey and your endless support! Would have never been possible without you! So proud of you sending as well! Thanks to the people supporting me and to @kammerlander_beat for establishing this route.

Prinzip Hoffnung was a route I always had in mind but never really dared to dream about. When I finally started trying it 6 weeks ago I immediately fell in love with it and realised it was the perfect route for me: The first part is a crack, which is followed by some tiny holds and footholds, on gear that is scarce but (as I hoped) enough for me to try my best on the route. The name of the route says it all: you have to hope that everything stays in place – the gear and the feet on the footholds!

Living in Innsbruck, we decided from the beginning to take the train in order to climb it with a footprint as low as possible  In the end we saved around 2000km. I even thought about aiming for a ‘greenpoint’ (how I would name it when doing sth by bike/train ) but we had to take the car as soon as we brought crashpads for the lower part of the route. Of course, taking the train takes way longer and after freezing the whole day you rather want to jump in the warm car whenever you’re done, but at the same time it allows time to work/ or sleep;) and it was totally worth it.“

Foto: (c) Johannes Ingrisch