Sylwia Buczek klettert “Lost Schnuller” 11- (8c)

Sylwia Buczek holt sich eine Begehung  von “Lost Schnuller” (XI-) am Rötliches Massiv (Bugfels) Ailsbachtal. Die Alex Megos-Route aus dem Jahr 2014 ist der linke Ausstieg zu “Schnulleralarm” und ist passend für Sylwia sehr boulderlastig.

Lost Schnuller is the left exit of Schnulleralarm. After the crux of Schnulleralarm it is important to stay fresh,
because all the difficulty comes down to a hard three moves boulder problem nearly at the end of the route.
The weeks before I focused mainly on working on this final crux. Sunday was the time to give some tries ground up:
My first two tries were tiring already, I fell off the final Crux both times.
During my final go my skin was hurting so much that I wasn’t expecting to do much more than a few moves.
When I passed the crux of Schnulleralarm I felt good but the sun was shining straight into my face.
I was sure that with the sun shining on the rock, I wouldn’t have any chance in the upper boulder. But I didn’t want to let this thought win.
I rest a few minutes on a good jug, switching hands and chalking like crazy, as I would be climbing in the 30 C°.
I tried hard to rest as good as possible to get rid of the pump. As a boulderer I´m not used to relaxing on jugs. My legs were shaking,
fearing to slip off because of my old climbing shoes.
When I finally felt like I would be ready to fight my way up to the crux, I left the jug and traverse to the left.
When I entered the crux I felt the exact same pump as during my previous tries, but I kept on fighting. I crimped all I could on that sharp two
finger crimp to snatch up high to reach a sloppy crimp: the crux move that kicked me off already so often.
Suddenly I stuck the crimp, my mind seemed to be frozen for a moment: this was the moment I was dreaming about for such a long time.
I still had to fight a lot to get the last few moves done. When I finally clipped the anchor my inner self was jumping and screaming out loud
from the excitement. I smiled and enjoyed this really awesome and rare feeling of finishing a hard project for the rest of the day.


Photographer:  (c) Piotrek_Deska

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