Der 21-jährige Jorge Diaz-Rullo Calvo holt sich die 4. Begehung Chris Sharma Route „El Bon Combat“ im spanischen Klettergebiet „Cova de Ocell“ aus dem Jahr 2015. Die Route „El Bon Combat“ liegt nur 40 Minuten von Barcelona entfernt und wurde von Martí Iglesias Galobart eingebohrt und gehört zu den schwersten Routen der Welt. Die 25 Meter lange stark überhängende Route besteht aus Konglomeratgestein. Die Schwierigkeit beruht in der Aneinanderreihung mehrerer 8A-Boulder-Probleme, die mit schlechten Rastpunkten verbunden sind. Jakob Schubert, der Erstwiederholer würde die Route auf hart 9a+ abwerten! Jorge liegt da eher bei 9b. Immerhin verbrachte er über 30 Tage, fast ausschließlich in der Route und er kann auch schon auf einige 9b-Routen verweisen.

Jorge dazu:“ 30+ days of work, almost 2 months living in the sector alone, stressed by the heat of summer, drenched by a ton of rain, one robbery, so many frustrations and the fear of fighting a losing battle… I’ll never have the words to express this process … But now I am happy to announce that the battle has finally come to an end and I am proud to say it was a battle worth fighting for

It’s never easy to climb something that is at your maximum level especially when the route is your anti-style  But doing it has given me a lot of motivation!  Now I am sure that I can try harder things of my style for this route has mentally prepared me to dedicate time to them .

As for the grade of the route, it’s always something I find hard to evaluate so I usually end up leaving it aside. Each climber has had a different opinion  @chris_sharma proposed 9b/+, @jakob.schubert lowered it to 9a+ and @felipe.camargo pointed it out to 9b. I appreciate all their opinions, but at the end of the day if it’s a first ascent, it always going to cost you more time and effort and on the other hand, if you come well trained, in your best moment and with good conditions it might feel easier/less difficult. But for me, I think the most honest thing is to award it 9b, for some it could be less, and I don’t rule that out (9a+/b) but it has cost me so much, it’s my antistyle and the conditions did not help at all… It was truly, very difficult for me! So long story short, whatever the grade is, I’m just happy to have done it!

Now it’s time for a change of place. I will miss this place and all the people in the area!  Without any doubt, you can call upon me for whatever you need! You will see me again! „

Photo: „@mtnz.adri