Die 19-jährige Ella Adamowska meldet auf ihren Instagram-Account eine Begehung der Route “Pal Norte” 8c+ im spanischen Klettergebiet Margalef. Nachdem sie letztes Jahr noch scheiterte und “nur” “Pal Este” (8c) klettern konnte, gelang ihr der schwere Ausstieg nach nur sechs Versuchen in diesem Jahr. Da es ihre erste Route in diesem Grad war, konnte sie weder 8c+ noch 8c+/9a bestätigen. Die Route wurde 2007 von Ramón Julián Puigblanqué erstbegangen und letztes Jahr auch schon von Laura Rogora wiederholt.
“Well, this business is over way faster than I expected.
Couldn’t have asked for better conditions- sun with freezing north wind took over Margalef today and helped us to tick off our projects. Together with my crew we really did have an epic #sendday (@_vtrojan_ 2x 8c @honzavopat 8c)
About the grade 8c+ or 8c+/9a, I can’t say because I don’t have a climb to compare it with as it’s my first route of this category.
Anyway, it doesn’t really matter to me, this route is such an (painful) gem that it just feels perfect to have it in my pocket.
Then I surprised myself when finishing the day off with my absolute nemesis 8b- Zona 30 which felt like a peace of cake with today’s friction and clear head.
Swipe left to see a video with how I got my stucked in the one-finger pocket and had to do one of the hardest moves twice during the send.
Psyched for more!”
I chose this route mainly because I really liked it visually, it’s an amazing line! Moreover, last winter I sent Pal este which shares the first 3/4 of the route, then at the end of the trip, I tried the moves in Pal Norte once but it felt too hard. Together with Pal este last year it took me about 15 tries (9 in Pal Este and 6 this year). I must admit these kinds of routes (overhanging, based on endurance with small sharp pockets) really suit me.
Even though the conditions are much better than the last winter, there’s definitely not so many people in Margalef, probably due to the covid situation. As the situation is getting worse in Czech, it’s possible I will stay till the half of January since I’m currently studying at the University remotely.”
Foto: (c) Jakub Konecny