Jacopo Larcher and Barbara „Babsi“ Zangerl sends the first single Repoint ascent of the route „Odyssey “ (X-/8a +) in the Eiger North Face. The both climbers needed 4 days and played their whole routine as experienced Bigwall climbers. Both climbed all the pitches free in four days (swinging leads) and the crux pitches both on lead. The route is likely to be the most difficult route through the notorious north face. The route was first climbed by Roger Schaeli, Robert Jasper and Simon Gietl in the summer of 2015, after the first two of them prepared the route from 2009-2013.
Jacobo means to your ascent: „We had just 4 days time between some obligations, but we really wanted to try this beautiful route… so we didn’t check the weather and we just went for it. We started in the rain, climbed some very wet pitches, shared a single ledge ( #bdofficeibkcrew for the fly), got all our bivy gear wet and rapped down in the rain. We almost had to bail, but we kept the motivation and the hope high and eventually everything went well. After 4 days we managed to both free climb this outstanding line, living another cool adventure together. Big up to @rogerschaeli, @robertjasperextremeclimber and @gietlsimon for putting up such a journey trough Eiger’s steepest part! … and of course to @paolosartophoto for joining us on the first days to document our adventure. It definitely wasn’t easy. Check out my stories in the next days to discover more about it.“
Fotos: (c) Paolo Sartori