The hardest Trad routes in the world

We finally managed to put together a list of the hardest trad routes in the world. Of course, this still needs to be supplemented and corrected. So please bring your hints and corrections.

Probably the hardest route in this list was “Tripe” by Jacopo Larcher for the first time last year. The difficulty is still unconfirmed, but the suggestion comes from a certain Adam Ondra. The oldest route on this list is from Ron Kauk. He climbed the “Magic Line” route in 1996 with the safety equipment left in place. In 2018 his son Lonnie Kauk was able to eliminate this “”flaw“”. At the moment the route most repeated is the “Cobra Crack” in the Canadian climbing area Squamish with 13 ascents. Sonnie Trotter first ascented the route in 2006.

The list shows all trad routes from grade 8b + / X +. The “Prinzip Hoffnung” is an exception here. The route deserves it because of its historical significance. Most trad routes are “traditional” on the American continent. In Europe, apart from the British Isles, there are certainly a few more pearls.

RouteGradMassivErstbegehungsjahrLandBegeher
Blackbeard's Tears8c+Redwood Coast2016USAEthan Pringle
Power Ranger8b+Sunset Rocks - Chattanooga2017USAJames Pearson
Black Mamba8cUtah2019USATom Randall, Pete Whittaker
Brozone8cShawangunks2016USAAndy Salo, Sam Elias
Century Crack8cCanyonlands2016USATom Randall, Pete Whittaker, Danny Parker, Molly Mitchell
China Doll8b+Boulder Canyon2017USAMike Patz, Matt Segal, Ethan Pringle, Joe Mills, Heather Weidner
Dihedron8b+Joshua Tree1997USARandy Leavitt
East Coast Fist Bump8b+Oak Creek Canyon2015USAJoel Unema
Enter the Dragon8b+The Fins2012USAJonathan Siegrist
Father's Day8b+Donner Summit2014USAAlan Moore, Nico Favresse, Urs Moosmuller
Full Dunn-Westbay8b+The Diamond2013USATommy Caldwell, Joe Mills, Jonathan Siegrist
Ill Fire8b+Adirondacks2011USAPeter Kamitses
Iron Monkey8b+Eldorado Canyon2008USAMatt Segal, Ethan Pringle, Brian Kim
Magic Line8c/+Yosemite1996/2018USARon Kauk*, Lonnie Kauk, Hazel findlay
Magic Mushroom8b+Yosemite2012USATommy Caldwell, Justen Sjong, Babsi Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher
Meltdown8c+Yosemite2008USABeth Rodden, Carlo Traversi
Oppositional Defiance Disorder8b+Adirondacks2011USAPeter Kamitses
Ozone8b+Shawangunks2016USACody Sims, Peter Kamitses, Andy Salo
Planet Claire8b+Shawangunks2015USAScott Franklin, Char Fetterolf, Andy Salo
Proper Soul8b+New River Gorge2011USABrent Perkins
Pure Pressure8b+Escalante Canyon2016USABen Rueck
Sewer Rat8b+Sundown Ledge2009USADave Sharratt
Silently Does the Sun Shine8b+Red River Gorge2012USAAndrew Gearing
South Face (Washington Column)8b+Yosemite2011USAMatt Wilder
Stranger Than Fiction8b+Moab2015USAMason Earle
The Almighty8b+/cTeton Canyon2012USATy Mack, Jonathan Siegrist
The Bull8cSquamish2013USAJeremy Smith, Ben Harnden
Leve Leve8b+Pico Cão Grande2018São Tomé and PríncipeIker Pou, Enoko Pou
Prinzip Hoffnung8b/+Bürser Platte2009Österreich Beat Kammerlander, Alex Luger, Jacopo Larcher, Fabi Buhl, Babsi Zangerl, Michael Gunsilius, Christian Bindhammer, Nemuel Feurle, Michi Wohlleben und Nadine Wallner
Psychogramm8b+Bürser Platte2018ÖsterreichAlex Luger, Fabi Buhl, Jacopo Larcher, Michi Wohlleben
Into the sun8c+Murgtal2017SchweizBernd Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher
Recovery Drink8c+Jossingford2013NorwegenNico Favresse, Daniel Jung, Pete Whittaker
Cobra Crack8cSquamish2006KanadaSonnie Trotter, Nico Favresse, Ethan Pringle, Matt Segal, Will Stanhope, Yuji Hirayama, Alex Honnold, Pete Whittaker, Tom Randall, Ben Harnden, Mason Earle, Logan Barber, Said Belhaj
Family Man8cSkaha2014KanadaSonnie Trotter, Ben Harnden
La Zébrée8b+Mont-King2007KanadaJean-Pierre Ouellet, Sylvain Masse
Sugar Daddy8b+Squamish2010KanadaSonnie Trotter, Ben Harnden
The Path8b+Lake Louise2012KanadaSonnie Trotter, Ethan Pringle, Miles Adamson, Matt Wilder, Peter Kamitses, Tommy Caldwell, Read Macadam, Tim Emmett, Doug McConnell, Babsi Zangerl, Jonathan Siegrist, Jacopo Larcher, Alexander Megos
Tom Egan Memorial Route8cBugaboos2015KanadaWill Stanhope
Tribe9a+?Cadarese2019ItalienJacopo Larcher
Lapoterapia8cOsso2015ItalienJacopo Larcher
Pura Pura8c+Valle dell'Orco2014ItalienTom Randall
Direquiem8b+Dumbarton Rock2010GroßbritannienSonnie Trotter
Echo Wall8cBen Nevis2012GroßbritannienDave MacLeod
Longhope Direct8b+St. John's Head2011GroßbritannienDave MacLeod, James McHaffie, Ben Bransby
Rhapsody8c+Dumbarton Rock2006GroßbritannienDave MacLeod, Sonnie Trotter, Steve McClure, James Pearson, Jacopo Larcher
La Voyage8cChambre du Roi -Annot2017FrankreichJames Pearson
Das große Knübbeln8b+Pfalz2014DeutschlandFelix Lehmann