Denis Urubko with Solo first ascent on Gasherbrum II (8034 m)

Denis Urubko sends a successful solo ascent on the Gasherbrum II on a completely new route.

Urubko and his partner Maria “Pipi” Cardell left for Pakistan in mid-June to join the Gasherbrum II on a new route. Unfortunately, Pipi already injured during the march after a fall and had to give up after prolonged drug treatment their expedition. Nonetheless, she stayed in the base camp to support Denis. On 18 July, during his acclimatization phase, he first reached the summit of Gasherbrum II on the normal route together with other mountaineers, including Marco Confortola. After Urubko’s return to base camp, the events unfolded and he became a heroic figure during three rescue operations reported on all sides Gasherbrum VII and twice at the Gasherbrum II.

On July 31, two days after his 46th birthday, Urubko finally set off alone from Camp 1 to realize his dream of a new route solo and alpine style at Gasherbrum II. According to Urubko Manner he took neither radio, satellite phone nor GPS. He reached the summit on 1 August and then went back to the normal way back to Camp 1, which he entered in the morning hours (CET – Central European Time) of August 2.

An incredible achievement that will surely go down in the alpinist history books and Urubko will most certainly bring in his 2nd Piolet d’Or! Chapeau Denis!

Text: (c) Lisa-Maria Laserer (translated)

The Polish-Kazakh mountaineer Denis Urubko was the 15th mountaineer to climb all eight-thousanders and the eighth to do this without additional oxygen. He managed also with the Italian Simone Moro the first winter ascent of the Makalu and the Gasherbrum II.

Photo: Denis Urubko during his winter climbing attempt on the K2 in 2018 (c) CAMP

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