Martin Keller sends "Riot Act low" (8C)

The Swiss Martin Keller added a low start to the Markus Bock boulder “Riot Act” (8B/+) in the Northern Franconian. It is one the fourth 8C boulder in Franconia and the seventh boulder with this level of difficulty in Germany, which is still waiting for its first 8C+ boulder. Martin didn’t do it very easily either, he fought over ten years with a total of over 60 sessions in the boulder. For this he traveled over 5 hours and 500 kilometers for one direction.

„conditions and a 10hrs (1‘000km) roundtrip from home – would you go for a project at your limit? especially with my track-record off epic -multi-year-projecting? would i be able to deal with the physical and mental challenges?! i was curious – so i went for it . (disclaimer; at least co2-compensated driving!!!)
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it all started back in 2009 when i fell on the last moves off „riotact (original), 8B+“ on my second session – but it took me some 10years to finally put down the original @bock.markus – classic at the end off last year! just a few sessions per year and beeing „close“ all the time was (is) not enough – sometimes that one move can take years!!! (—> back in 2012; clip 1)
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i saw the possible lower start (at the lowest point off the arete on a big flake) already back in 2009 on my first visit – so after completing the original start i talked to @bock.markus and brushed up that lower start! it ads around 4-5moves that add up and make it really hard to keep it together at the end – i simply loved it!!! (—> the „low-start“; pic 2)

4weeks inn i fell on the last move and on the very next try i ripped off the big starting-flake! i was lucky to not have killed myself! and lucky the low-start was still possible but bit harder again (—> clip3).
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another 4weeks and i fell twice in one session on the last hard move (—> clip 4). @friederwarth who joined on many sessions made better use off that last good day and did the first ascent off the low-start; strong performance !!!
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then something at the start broke again – i needed new mikrobeta – many 5AM morning-sessions – i fell at the last moves again. but in early july it was simply too hot and too humid for me – game over!!! (—> clip 5)
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really happy to have kept it together now after a few sessions and after greasing off once again at the last hard move… (—> the send day… deal with conditions; clip 7)
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again #power was the solution – not #starvation!!! ( —> clip 6)
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enjoyed that journey and the time spent with good people and good food and good beer a lot!!! „

Foto: (c) Hannes Kutza https://www.instagram.com/p/B6A2zvjDjKe/

5 thoughts on “Martin Keller sends "Riot Act low" (8C)

  • 23. December 2019 at 10:27
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    Genau genommen hat Frieder Warth den Tiefstart im Mai oder Juni 2019 erstbegangen. Martin hat den Tiefstart nach Absprache mit Markus Bock (Erstbegeher des Originalstarts) “vorbereitet” und geputzt, da er die ursprüngliche Idee hatte, am tiefsten Punkt zu starten. Frieder hat den Boulder mit Martin zusammen probiert und mit Martins Einverständnis die erste Begehung gemacht. Da Frieder aber nicht mehr in sozialen Netzwerken aktiv ist, hat davon kaum jemand erfahren.

    Reply
  • 23. December 2019 at 11:01
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    Genau genommen hat Frieder Warth den Tiefstart im Mai oder Juni 2019 erstbegangen. Martin hat den Tiefstart nach Absprache mit Markus Bock „vorbereitet“ und geputzt, da Martin die ursprüngliche Idee hatte, am tiefsten Punkt zu starten. Frieder hat den Boulder mit Martin zusammen probiert und mit Martins Einverständnis die erste Begehung gemacht. Da Frieder aber nicht mehr in sozialen Netzwerken aktiv ist, hat davon kaum jemand erfahren. Zum Grad hat Frieder nichts gesagt, weils ihm scheißegal ist.

    Reply
    • 23. December 2019 at 11:41
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      Danke für die Infos. Wir werden sie mal ergänzen.

      Reply
      • 23. December 2019 at 14:02
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        Wir haben bei Martin gleich noch mal nachgefragt :-). Jetzt ist alles geklärt.

        Reply
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