Now the route „Merci la Vie“ (8a) on the Geneva pillar in the north face of the Eiger has received two red point ascents. The 300 meter long route first ascented by Nina Caprez, Roger Schaeli and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll in August 2019 and now climbed by Roger Schaeli in July and Nina Caprez in August Redpoint. „Merci la Vie“ is probably the second hardest route on the wall after „Odyssey“ X-/ 8a+.
In 2009 Roger Schaeli managed together with Robert Jasper, the first free ascent of the Japanese route (August 28–31, 2009, 8a, X-UIAA) and then in 2013 the first free ascent of the Piola-Ghilini-Direttissima (IX). Five years ago, the first ascent of the so far most difficult route „Odyssey“ X- / 8a + through the Eiger north face followed. This time the South Tyrolean Simon Gietl was there.
Nina Caprez is one of the most successful alpine climbers in the world. Together with Barbara Zangerl, she was successful in 2015 in the “Unendliche Geschichte” (X+/ 8b +). „La Voie Petit“ (450m, 8b) at the Grand Capucin followed last summer.