The German climbing legend Alexander Huber was once again on his favourite climbing island Sardinia and open with „La Bavarese“ (X+/8b+) a spectacular new route at Punta Giradili through an imposing overhang:

„The Ogliastra on the central east coast of Sardinia is a climbers paradise – you find amazing walls and strikig spires and you could say that nothing compares to the Grutta Pintata, the giant roof on the South Face of Punta Giradili. Throughout all these years in the mountains I haven’t seen any other big overhang of similar dimension. Meant to be climbed!

Right through the center of this overhang leads the new route „La Bavarese“ which I opened ground up one year ago. In October I came back with the intention to freeclimb its six pitches, but too much rain made a complete free ascent impossible – I had to come back nd that´s exactly what I did!

The first three pitches ( V / 8a+ / 8b+ ) of „La Bavarese“ follow the route „Niké“ of Jan Kares – a line which still awaits a free ascent. The third pitch is the first crux – a short and bouldery pitch! With the fourth pitch my creation „La Bavarese“ leaves the route of  Jan Kares and follows the line of least resistance. Another round of wildly overhanging roof climbing on three more pitches ( 8b / 8b+ / 7b+).

The support of the local climbers was essential. Riky Felderer was only in charge to shoot these amazing pictures, but he was constantly supporting my efforts as well as he was my partner on the final redpoint ascent on the 5th of February.“

insta @alexander@huberbuam


Fotos: (c) Riky Felderer