For a long time, nothing „difficult“ was heard from the Franconian Jura. Now the „local“ Moritz Welt was able to open up a new top route with „Lazarus“ (XI/XI+). Last Wednesday, 23 November 2022, he succeeded in the new route on the crag „Schiefer Tod“ in the Wiesenttal in the Northern Franconian Jura and at the same time only the 7th route in this grade and more difficult in Germany.
For Moritz, it was the first route in this grade, if repeaters were to confirm the difficulty.
The route starts after a five metre high step with a five move boulder in boulder grade [8B+]. Then twelve strength-exerting moves follow in the upper tenth grade UIAA. This is followed by only four metres of climbing in the lower eighth grade (UIAA to the end).
Markus Bock discovered and bolted the line about ten years ago. A good two and a half years ago, he handed over the project to Moritz on request.
„The project has come down!
Finding suitable beta took me more than a year, finishing it off took another one. And despite a few sessions on other projects, this was almost the only thing I’ve tried in Frankenjura this season. Couldn’t be happier to send right before winter kicks in.
Big shoutout @the.midnight.wolfman for bolting this kingline and letting me try!
Speaking grades, I hesitated a lot going for 9a+. But compared to anything I’ve done and tried in the past, this just feels one step above.
Thx everyone for the patient belays.“
Photo: (c) Lars Decker