The young Spaniard Jorge Diaz-Rullo could now get the first repetition of Alex Mego’s „The full journey“ (9b) in Margalef. Jorge managed to do this after only four days 4 days of „work“, climbing the first part a year ago and the second part a week ago.
After sending „The Journey R1“ (9a/+) last year, I already had half of the full puzzle figured out. A few days ago I completed The second part with „Carlota’s Journey“ (9a+), at this point I knew it was only a matter of time before I would be able to complete the original line. But I didn’t think it would be so fast. As soon as I repeated the first top, I sent the complete line
An attempt in which everything was to the limit in which I would say that luck was with me
It was a real pleasure to be able to climb another line on this amazing wall. Another small step and another training complete, just another step to my long awaited project.
About the grade, @alexandermegos proposed 9b. I personally don’t like monos that much so I opted to make a small dynamic move from a very bad crimp and thus dodging that mono in the last hard boulder problem. This beta made the route easier for me, although I think that this boulder has the same difficulty using one method or the other, around 8A-8A+. I also used a couple of kneebars which clearly helped me but I don’t think it would change anything difficulty wise, the really hard part is the last crux. In my opinion, this route is easier than it’s neighbor „Café solo“, but probably the same difficulty as it’s other variant. So „The journey in Colombia“ and „The full journey“ could be the same difficulty, both between 9b and 9a+/b. Anyway, a king line!
Thank you all of you for joining me!
The route is an original line linking „The Journey“ (9a+) and „Carlota’s Journey„(9a+).
Photo: (c) Adri Martinez