Hans Radetzki und Solveig Korherr holen sich die 4 und 5 Begehung der Toproute im schwäbischen Donautal. Es waren die 4. und 5. Begehung der Route „Die neue Dimension des Grauens“.
Nachdem sich Solveig vor einigen Jahren in der Route probierte und nicht vorankam, tat sie sich mit Hans Radetzki zusammen und konnte die Route Ende Oktober klettern. Wahnsinn was in der Route im leicht überhängenden Gelände für kleine Griffe gehalten werden müssen.
Diese kleingriffige Route wurde 1995! von Matze Ruf erstbegegangen, der sie damals mit glatt zehn einstufte.
Solveig zu ihrer Begehung: „It’s been really great to come back to Donautal, which is the closest climbing area from where I grew up, after not visiting for three years.
I’m so thrilled that @hans_radetzki & I just made the 4th & 5th ascent of Donautal‘s test-piece „Die neue Dimension des Grauens“ on the same day.
A route that we both had a lot of respect for. It’s one of the hardest routes in the area and was first climbed in 1995. Since then it has only seen two more ascents. Donautal is known for it’s stiff grading and Dimension is no exception.
A few years ago, when I tried it for the first time, I thought this route was too hard and some of the bigger moves where not possible for my height. I didn’t plan to go back to it, but when Hans told me he was trying it, I got excited to try it too. Surprisingly, I was able to do all the moves rather quickly & find a beta that worked for me.
Making the fourth ascent of this historic line means a lot to me, by far more than some of the harder routes I’ve climbed before. I had heard about it already when I was a teenager. Back then, I could never have imagined to climb it one day. It’s impressive that Matze Ruf already had the vision to climb it in 1995 and grading it 8b
Thanks Hans for sharing this experience & the epic sending day! I’m really psyched we did it on the same day also thanks for the awesome photos!“
Hans zu seiner Begehung: This beautiful piece of rock holds a special place in my heart. “Die neue Dimension des Grauens“ is one of the hardest and prettiest routes at Donautal, the climbing area where I grew up in and learned how to climb. I remember looking up this blank and intimidating line as a child perceiving it as something completely impossible.
Having recently returned to the valley, I really enjoyed trying this route and meeting old friends and local legends. Despite having lived in all sorts of places I still feel very rooted here.
In a double send @solveig_amelie and me put down this iconic rig a few days ago. Solveig did it in only a few tries and impressively took the 4th ascent in 28 years. It really opened my eyes and put my intimidation aside and I could climb it, too, a few tries after. Thanks for the memorable day out, Sol! And thanks to all the people who went there with me including the local legends who were never lazy to stay a little longer to cheer me on with their Feierabendbier in their hands.
The route was first ascended in 1995 by local dark horse Matze Ruf (second pic) who proposed a grade of 8b in his Swabian modesty. Needless to say that this route (like almost all his FA’s) is much harder and even for 8b+ it’s no giveaway. I have so much respect for your vision Matze, you were ahead of your time…
Foto: Hans Radetzki (Solveig Korherr) und Pascal Bernhard (Hans Radetzki). Pascal konnte sich übrigens 2016 die dritte Begehung holen, nachdem Johannes Schlemper erst 2007 die erste Wiederholung gelang.