Die wohl zur Zeit beste Allrounderin Barbara „Babsi“  Zangerl kann sich die erste Wiederholung der Route „Sprengstoff“ sichern. Es dürfte für Barbara nach „Speed Integrale“ ihre zweite 9a-Route sein und sicherlich nicht die leichteste Route in diesem Grad. Ihr Partner Jacopo Larcher konnte im Winter 2020  kann nach 25! Jahren das alte Beat Kammerlander Projekt zu den Akten legen, das obwohl viele namhafte Kletterer sich an diesem Projekt probierten.

Genannt hat es Jacopo „Sprengstoff “ und vorsichtig mit 9a eingestuft. Die Route befindet sich im Vorarlberger Klettergebiet „Lorünser Wändle“. Der Routenname ist auf die ungewisse Zukunft des Klettergebietes bezogen, da es sich auf dem Grundstück der Steinbruch Lorüns GmbH befindet und diese das Klettergebiet abbauen könnte.

Babsi Zangerl vor zehn Jahren noch fast ausschließlich beim Bouldern unterwegs, hat sich zu einer der besten Allroundkletterinnen der Welt entwickelt und das obwohl sie im Krankenhaus Bludenz als Radiologe arbeitet.

At first I thought this line is beyond of reach for me. It took some time to find the motivation to start from zero and invest all of my energy and imagination to find a way to resolve this puzzle. The process to try this line after Jacopo did the first ascent last November was as exciting as it can get. Falling off after the last draw—was nerve-wracking. I always thought I would never fall at this point high up at the end of the line. This was unexpected and added an extra mental challenge to me. The resting- breaks in between tries needed to be way longer as usual to get power back and the chance to fall right after the first draw was part of the game and made the progress even more delicate. Pure power endurance until the very top-> no mistakes allowed. At the end of the day the coolest thing about such a project is that you wake up every single day highly motivated. I couldn’t wait to get there and just try as hard as I could and find the perfection of every single movement. It is probably my hardest and one of the best single pitches I have climbed. Once again thanks to @kammerlander_beat for the inspiration and for bolting this line. „Sprengstoff“ was an open project for more than 25 years. Jacopo did the FA a few month ago. I am just happy to follow up with the first repeat. Thanks to my sister @claudiazangerl for the sending belay!! At the end I am always a bit sad when it is over. Even if it is just another piece of rock! But It can mean quite a lot to us climbers. I really hope that the wall will be there for many more years, for the next generations of climbers. It is definitely one of those crags which is highly in danger. It is placed right at a quarry and not to be meant to stay forever. I hope this crag will be preserved in the future. 

Foto: (c) Jacopo Larcher