He succeeded in doing so within two days: His comment by Instagram
Lupghar Sar Solo Expedition ▲
First day (July 6): 7,5 hours from BC (4500m) up to good bivy spot below the face at around 6200m. When you’re climbing solo you take more risk, but it feels so great to move light and fast in high altitude on a technical mountain. I felt how much more is possible in high altitude, not neccesarily thinking about climbing solo.
Second day (July 7) start at 5am. Reached the summit at 11.30am. Took my bivy gear up to the ridge in case of bad weather arriving. But then I decided to push up to the highest point. Last 200 altitude meters offered some mixed climbing, not too hard but still spicy enough at the 7000m border in solo. Also some deep snow trail braking up to the summit cornice, where I sure was maybe a bit on the limit due to moving up on the the lee side of the mountain. But I never felt really out of my comfort zone. The way down was a bit of a fight, because I felt very tired and the weather changed. I just kept on going until I reached BC at around 8pm the same day. Decided to down climb everything because I had only a 5mm 60m rope and it felt to me that I’ll be faster than searching for belays and making abalakovs on the parts with blue ice. I wished to absell a few times, but yes all was good.
Photos: (c) Hansjoerg Auer