The 40-year-old Swiss alpinist Roger Schäli has made a First Ascent on the Eiger this summer. The tour has been prepared alternately with Dimitri Vogt, Bernd Rathmayr and Mayan Smith Gobat Roger. With Bernd Rathmayr Roger also has „Deep Blue Sea“ (7b +) first ascented. The route climbs on the „Genfer Pfeiler“ to the right of the route „Deep Blue Sea“ at the light-shadow border and offers on the 300 meters a mixture of Trad- and ’sportclimbing‘. The 40 meter (8a +) Crux pitch only has two bolts. „Airplane Mode“ offers the following difficulties on eight rope lengths: 6b + (50, m 2 bolts), 7a, 7c, 7c, 7c + hard, 8a + (40m) 2 bolts, 7c and 6a. Roger failed at the red point ascent this summer. The 8a + boulder crux threw him off this time, but next year he climb the route in redpoint as fast as possible. After that there are from Roger Schäli knows the Eiger north face like no other. He climbed it over 35 times over 15 different routes. The route „Airplane Mode“ is already his third first ascent in this wall. In 2007 he opened „Magic Mushroom“ (7c) with Christoph Hainz and in 2015 he fought his way through the route „Odyssee“ (8a +) together with Robert Jasper.
Website: www.rogerschaeli.ch





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