Dave MacLeod has completed his long-term project at Binnein Shuas, Lochaber, to make the first ascent of Mind Riot E10 7a.

Dave to his First Ascent: ‚Mind Riot is at the left end. It connects two big flake features (the upper one is Iain’s Siege Engine) via a 30 degree overhanging groove which provides the crux. There is also a sting in the tail finishing roof which is 8a+ (E8) in itself. The runout up the overhanging groove is pretty sustained and hard and it’s quite likely you’ll hit the slab below the route if you fall near the end of this section.‘

Comparing Mind Riot to his previous top-end trad ascents – which include Rhapsody E11 7a (2006, UKC News) and Echo Wall (ungraded, 2008, UKC News) and Die by the Drop E10 7a (2010, UKC video) – Dave estimates that Mind Riot ranks near the top of his hardest trad ticks.

He explained: ‚Overall the route is around 8c in difficulty, so with the danger on the runout and the mountain situation it makes it a pretty demanding route. I think I’ve only climbed one trad route which is as hard or harder, Echo Wall.

Some more thoughts on the route, grade etc on his blog. https://www.davemacleod.com/blog/mind…