MP "Magellan" (X-) Redpoint by Alexander Huber and Guido Unterwurzacher

There is something “old news” from  Alex Huber. Fifteen years ago, Alex together with Michael Meisl climb and bolted a line through the impressive roofs of the central pillar on the Urlkopf in the “Verdon of Tyrol and Salzburg” 1000 meters above the Strub valley. The protection of the first ascent ‘Magellan‘ is in the usual “Huber standard” and based on the minimal use of  bolted anchors. That means only six bolts used in the six pitches. Alex together with Guido Unterwurzacher redpointed the route end of august.

“Fluently we cruised first two pitches, then comes the crux: the roof! Such a beauty… wildly exposed, dynamic moves and cool conditions. We both make this 8a on our first go and now the doors are wide open! The finish of “Magellan” holds another two pitches. Comparatively easy climbing, but still interesting as you have to find where to place the protection. Overall “Magellan” is an 200 meters long climb with six pitches (7a, 7c+, 8a, 7b+, 6a+, 6b). In total there are six bolts as protection, furthermore we recommend a full set of cams up to #3 and a set of nuts.”

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