Jérémy Bonder can get the 3rd ascent or the second ascent after breaking hold of the boulder „Satan i Helvete Low“. The boulder was first climbed by Dave Graham as a standing start. Seb Frigault later added a low start. This year in May, the 15-year-old French Oriane Bertone went on to climb the boulder in Fontainebleau. It was the first ascent after a hold broke. Oriane suggested grade 8C for the boulder, which Jérémy has now confirmed.
I must have done 6 to 10 sessions between May and July. In June, I managed to make the start standing in 8B +. From there I started to put down trials but the heat didn’t make it any easier and even going very early it was already over 25 ° C by 8am. My sessions could end after only 4/5 tries because with the heat, I cut my right index finger very quickly!
I would say this boulder is one of the most technical I have ever done. As you can see, you need to have good grip, but not only that, you also need to be flexible and very precise in your climbs. Everything is played out in the micro-details: placement of the heel to the millimeter, placement of the fingers in the lock to perfection … Otherwise, impossible to make the next movement. This is all that makes you feel good in practice or on the contrary to have the impression that it is impossible.
This Wednesday, after a 1.5 month break in this block, I’m going back without any wait. The temperatures have come down well compared to July. In a few tries I manage to start again standing up and after 2 more tries I do it! It’s always nice to be rewarded for your effort and time spent.
Regarding the coast is it 8C? It’s not the hardest 8C I’ve been able to do, but it matches my physical qualities in every way: arches, an open pelvis, feet in the teeth, so hard to say. See what other repeaters will say …
Now it’s time for other forest projects, but I admit that I have not yet chosen what to invest in. The priority is to come to the end of „Super Crackinette“ 9a + in Saint Leger where I will be returning in October until the competition season resumes!“