Edu Marin, certainly one of the best multipitch climbers in the world, freed a new, very difficult multipitch route „Arco Iris“ in Montserrat. The route „Arco Iris“ (200m, 8c +) on El Plàtan
runs along a prominent edge and was „artificially“ climbed in 1979 by Armand Ballart and the German Folch. After an easy start (6a, 6c) the last four pitches are all in the 8th grade (8b +, 8c +, 8b, 8a +)
The route had only old gear from the first aid ascension. Edu added between three and five bolts in each pitch, trying to respect the original route.
Edu started trying the route in 2019, but it wasn’t until the beginning of this month that he was able to climb the key parts, belayed by his father.
„It’s been a mental struggle. Knowing that you have to face an 8c + pitch with only four bolts in 25 meters and potential falls up to 15 meters is not easy.“
Last year Spaniard sends the FA of the world’s first 9a + multipitch in China with „Walhalla„. Unfortunately, Edu has never been to Yosemite to climb the big walls there as a comparison.
Photo and Video: (c) Esteban Lahoz