New Mixed line "Nevermore" (VIII, 8) by Dave MacLeod and Iain Small

Scottish climbers Dave MacLeod and Iain Small have made the first ascent of the mixed climb ‘Nevermore’ on Ben Nevis, Scotland. The route is located in the actually well developed part of the Ben Nevis in the area of ​​the “Gully Buttress Number five” and above the long traverse at the beginning of the famous ‘Ledge Route’, which is often used by beginners to reach the top of the mountain. Equally surprising is the fact that the line has never been climbed in summer. Why they named the route “Nevermore” could not have been due to the weather. Perhaps it was an allusion to the ravens looking for food in the backpacks. “Nevermore VIII,8 first ascent on Ben Nevis with Iain Small. We knew about this big corner line from scoping out summer routes and it hadn’t been done summer or winter. I led pitch one which had a good full body thrutch to get past the jammed boulder, then a nice tin-opener flake above which I would have enjoyed more if I hadn’t used up all the right size hexes already. Iain’s pitch was superb with burly yarding in the overhanging section of the corner and then another couple of hard bulges above. We even got to finish in the light which has doesn’t happen so often on a new Nevis route in December. The Nevis ravens must be hungry after quiet autumn with no tourists about on the mountain. They had a good go at our rucksacks. Either they couldn’t figure out the BD cinch on my sack, or they don’t like #eggs But they unzipped Iain’s bag and scarfed his cheese sandwich and flapjack. Other friends on the hill that day had thier pieces confiscated as well.”

Photo: (c) Dave MacLeod, Iain Small

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