Gabriele Moroni and Lorenzo Bogliacino sends the first two repetitions of the route „Naturalmente“ 9a+ in the Italian climbing area Camaiore in Tuscany. The route was bolted by Marcello Bruccini/Stefano Zanchetta and completed by Luca Lucchesi and ultimately freed by Adam Ondra in 2017.
Gabriele: „My main 2021 project unexpectedly fell last week…
This beautiful piece of rock was bolted by @bruccinimarcello and @ste_zanchetta in 2007 then climbed by the one and only @adam.ondra in 2017.
My story with Naturalmente started last year, right after I sent the nearby route La Terza Età. A few days before I saw @bruccinimarcello climbing on it and I was amazed by the quality of the moves. I spent a good amount of days last year, getting closer and closer, but another lockdown and freezing temps came so I left the business unfinished… This spring I was feeling pretty fit but conditions didn’t allow proper tries. Two weeks ago I got back to the project for a quick weekend and from the first try I realized I already have great feelings on the route and made some promising links. Last thursday conditions were perfect. Finally cold and dry. On my third and last try of the day the vibes were great, I was relaxed and enjoyed every move of the route. Thanks to the massive support I got from all the people at the crag I had a great fight and clipped the chains for the second ascent of this beauty!! It was amazing to share tries,tips and methods with @bogliacc who sent the route two days later and @bruccinimarcello , three generations with the same passion and big dreams…“
Lorenzo:„Yes, in the end he let himself be caught… there the road is not finished, in fact it has just begun. But the head was there, very much so. Where I thought my legs would shake from the excitement I was calm, serene and above all I was enjoying myself like a child… so, a few metres to the left of where I had felt incredible emotions 2 years ago, one of the most beautiful pages of my life ended.
Climbed by Marcello Bruccini and Stefano Zanchetta, bolted by Luca Lucchesi, freed by @adam.ondra and repeated only last Thursday by @gabrimoroni… for me by far the hardest route I’ve ever tried and undoubtedly one of the most beautiful.
Thanks, thanks to all those who accompanied and supported me in this enterprise, thanks to all the guys at the zoo who have now become real friends… to my colleague @nico_tesc for the rides from the station! Thanks to the skinny @umb0086 for all the tips given during the year… and of course thanks to @eli_laure without whom I would never have even started dreaming of all this and… continuing with quotes from 8a.nu „thanks to Elisa for believing in me more than i do.“
Headphoto: Lorenzo Bogliacino in ‚Naturalmente‘ (c) Elisa Lauretano
Galery: Gabriele Moroni in ‚Naturalmente‘ (c) Luca Andreozzi