We think it’s still newsworthy: Buster Martin sends the 28th ascent* of the Güllich classic „Action Directe“ on the Waldkopf in the german climbing crag Frankenjura.
„What a route! It really is as dreamy as I’d imagined. The line, the moves, the setting and most importantly the history. Wolfgangs legacy, his display of dedication and vision to climb something like this back then, which has gone on to inspire so many.
A lovely personal experience, the years of dreaming, the all too short time climbing on the route in the forest,a totally over the top training block whilst away travelling in Indonesia. Loved it.
But as usual the people who made it! Selfless support to help me do something really quite selfish. @imikeweeks for his general wisdom, generosity and doing everything he could to help me train in his wall in Bali. Coral for helping organising our lives and travels so I could train (and then replanning every time I had sore skin or wanted an extra session) and @lehmann572 for his relentless positivity, belays and welcoming me into the frankenjura.
Cheers Hannes for the photos and Marsha for the video (coming soon).
Training plans and online coaching -> @kaizenclimbing“
Buster is, after Alexander Megos, only the second climber in the world to also climb „Hubble“ (8c+). In 2020, it was only the 9th ascent of the legendary route.
According to Adam Ondra and the last climbers, the route „Hubble“ could have been the first 9a in the world. Alexander Megos, who knows both routes, rated Hubble as easier. In Great Britain, however, the route is now usually given as 9a. Difficulties are quite relative.
*) The dubious ascent by Said Belhaj is no longer recognised, not only by us, as there are no witnesses to this ascent.
Photo: ©Hannes Huch | www.brandhug.de