The German Yannick Flohé sends on his bouldering trip in the Swiss bouldering crag „Ticino“ two top boulder problems. Besides „Off the Wagon Low“ [8C+], he was also able to give „Dreamtime“ [8B+/C] a new exit.

The new boulder, as the first first ascent of Yannick, exits after the same start as „Dreamtime“ to the right over the crux of „“Somnolence“ [8B] on the top. The result was the new creation „Return of the Dreamtime„, which Yannick graded [8C+].

Photo: (c) Jamie Shipston – Mourn

Yesterday I made my first FA by adding another line to this legendary bloc starting on Dreamtime but going right after the dyno. It adds the crux of Somnolence (8B) a big move on slopers that turned out to be quite hard coming from the ground with sweaty skin and pumped forearms. Talking about the grade it feels quite easy for 8C+ but comparing it to Dreamtime it’s on another level so the grade seems logical to me.

After that, Yannick tried „Off the Wagon Low“ [8C+] successfully, after he had already climbed the „standstart“ successfully a year ago.

His kingline went down quite easy today after I figured out the first move a couple of days ago. Since I did the stand start one year ago this one has been on top of my todo list.


Foto: Yannick Flohé in „Off the wagon low“ (c) Stefan Schmieg