The Japanese Sachi Amma reports on Instagram that he has done „Stoking the fire“ 9b in Santa Linya. He did spend some 2×10 days with a three months training break in Japan. The route was first ascented by Chris Sharma and has previously been repeated by Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert. Sachi stopped competing after he won the World Cup in 2014. The next year he did five 9a+’ and his first 9b, Fight or Flight. Then in 2016 he changed horizon – 8a interview. „„I can not find any value to be a better person by comparing myself with other climbers. That is why I stopped competing and climbing hard routes….“ Six months ago, he was back on track with a 9a+ FA „Rise“ in Shirakabe (Japan) and in December he started to project Stoking the fire.
Sachi means: „Since my last trip to this massive cave last December, this route was burning in me. I trained for 3 month because I wasn’t training my physical for long time. It worked pretty well on the route. But after twice heartbreaking fall on the middle part, I noticed I am not prepared for this super long steep wall. I continue to adapt and adjusting in the route. And finally it happened!“
Photo: (c) Jon Cardwell