The Italian Alessandro Zeni could now get what is probably only the second ascent of „Eternit“ in Baule in the Bellunesi Dolomites in Italy. Alessandro, as a slab specialist has been trying the route since 2010. Alessandro noticed that unfortunately, since 2010, when he tried the route for the first time, holds had been manipulated (or broken out) and the route had definitely become harder. The young Italian was only briefly impressed by this and accepted the challenge to climb the route anyway.

Eternit was a dream for me since 2010 when I tried it for the first time, challenging myself on the route known to be the hardest ever climbed by Maurizio Zanolla.
A few years later, however, this beautiful line, at first almost completely natural, has been irreparably ruined by removing some holds that I considered essential until a year ago. A shattered dream that I was able to reconstruct by accepting those changes.
Eternit was not just a difficult route, it was a deep inner search where the impossible became possible and finally achievable, a dream that became reality despite all the obstacles I encountered along the way”.

Alessandro was able to prove that he is good with slabs with his first ascent of „Cryptography„.

The route was first ascented in 2009 by the then 51-year-old Maurizio „Manolo“ Zanolla and is considered one of the most difficult slab climbs in the world. So far, only serouisly tries by Adam Ondra four years ago is known to us, who sees the route more in grade 9a+. After Adam’s attemps, rumours arose that the route had been chipped. Existing photos shows the rock changes. Allessandro means: „I’m sure also that the holds are chipped by someone, is not a naturally broken. I don’t know who have done this, but as a professional climber I can be certain to say it becouse some holds are broken and other one are also polish in some points were you don’t put the hands and also the feet.“

Nevertheless, Manolo already spoke of „hard 9a“.


Fotos: (c) Manrico Dell’Agnola