The young Swiss top boulderer Giuliano Cameroni announced a new 8C boulder in Swiss Magic Wood with ‘Power of Now’. It was his 5th boulder first ascented in grade 8C and harder. He climbed his hardest boulder FA ‘Poison the Well‘ 8C + last year. He also climbed the last year with the ‘House of the Rising Sun‘ as the first climber of an 8B bouldering flash.
YES so psyched to have done this one, for sure one of the coolest boulders I’ve ever seen. Starts with World Cup dihedral straight into a perfect dyno to a good hold, then a few set up moves on sculpted grips lead into the crux, a huge dynamic yet technical move to the lip. The wall is around 60 degrees so although the holds are good they are so far apart that it didn’t feel possibile to stick the lip while cutting the feet. Having good sensations and enough tension on the right foot in order to stick the move became pretty mental. Getting there it’s pretty hard already, and the last move needs to be executed with the right flow.
The key was to focus on the moment. So many times on dynamic moves it’s easy to start thinking. When you are free of thoughts and fear of messing up, you just focus on the now, which is an extra element that helps your way up your climb. Being in the present moment is not only necessary in climbing but it helps life in general, it gives joy and takes away weird pressure from the egoistic mind. Meditation takes away negative ideas and helps being in comfort with your whole body and respect nature and other people.
Photo: (c) WithPleasure