On Friday, July 31st, Filip Babicz, one of the best dry tool climbers in the world, was able to perform the first repetition and the first solo of the entire Peuterey ridge, also called „Integralissima“. The ridge leads from the Frêney brook to approx. 1840 m. above sea level over the ridges of Mont Rouge, Tête de Chasseures, Aiguille Noire, Dames Anglaises, Aiguille Blanche, Grand Pillier d’Angle, Mont Blanc from Courmayeur to the summit of Mont Blanc. With a length of over four kilometers, the route is the longest route in Europe. The entire ridge was climbed for the first time in 1973 by the German team Braun-Elwert and Kirmeier. Now 47 years after the first climb, Babicz did the first repetition, solo and very fast in 17 hours. The ascent was carried out entirely alone, with all the necessary material being taken from the Aiguille Noire to the Mont Blanc in Courmayeur without knowing the second part.


„Vast majority of questions concering Integralissima di Peuterey ridge is about the course of the variant along with the difference towards popular Integrale variant.

The course of Integralissima: I started at the trail head of Rifugio Monzino at 1612m alt. The first part of Peuterey Ridge, SSW Mont Rouge goes up about 1 km further, at 1840m alt, right beside Frêney creek. The real climb begins the subsequent kilometer further, on about 2330m alt. It’s the route of the first conquerers of Mont Rouge back in 1905. As for the difficulties the route reminds the first part of Aiguille Noire south ridge to Punta Bifida.

After reaching Mont Rouge, 2942m, one goes down the nothern ridge, to Col de Chasseurs, 2741m. This ridge was sent for the first time in 1923, while descending and it reminds the hardest parts of Aiguille Noire south ridge. It requires also at least five rappellings, each 30m long. Then the route passes the small peak of Tête de Chasseures, 2802m alt. Another rappelling leads to the point where Aiguille Noire south ridge finally begins.

Yet, this is not the end. Integrale ridge route enters the wall on Fouteuil des Allemands side. To reach it, one climbs Preuss route up to shoulder of Pic Gamba and then performs the 80m descend (or another two rappell). Here the route finally joins Integrale variant. It took me 4h08′ to reach this point (including 1h of making way to the very route). Subsequently, I reached Aiguille Noire in next 3h07′. This depicts the seriousness of Integralissima variant.“