Will Bosi, 22, from Edinburgh, United Kingdom has claimed the first ascent of ‘King Capella’ at Siurana, Spain and has proposed the grade of 9b+. If confirmed, it would make him the first British climber to climb the grade (and sixth in the world).

Bosi has been in Spain since December 2020 as a part of his preparations for the 2021 competition season and longer-term campaign preparations for the next Olympic cycle.

Bosi climbed La Capella (9b) in the same sector in early 2020 which made him the first Brit to climb the grade abroad and during this trip added another two first ascents to the area, La Furia de Jabali (9b) and Last Night (9a) but King Capella, bolted by David Brasco, represented a significant step up in difficulty according to Bosi;

“King Capella has the same style of the area with a series of boulder problems stacked on top of one another however this route was another level for me. For comparison, it took me three sessions to complete La Capella, whereas it took me three sessions to unlock the first sequence on King Capella”.

As well as the intense, fingery and powerful climbing typical of the area, the middle of the route was unlocked by Bosi with an explosive dynamic move before moving straight into another tough sequence.

“With powerful moves that don’t let up and having big all points off moves, King Capella was like I got to be Chris Sharma for a day, it was amazing!”

Bosi continues,

Source: (c) William Bosi


Photo: (c) Matt Bird – Bandofbirds