Nomura Shinichiro sends first ascent of the „Baraka Project“ in the Japanese bouldering area Shiobara. Nomura named the boulder „Loca“ and graded with V15/8C. For Nomura, also a first-class competition climber, it was the seventh 8C boulder overall.
„Yesterday I achieved FA of the Baraka project (Loca 8C), so called one finger dyno project.
After the one finger dyno move, there are so hard move waiting in line ; hooking a toe to higher position and doing a deadpoint to the lip while keeping front lever.
What’s more, the pocket i must take, has really sharp edge inside so I can gradually see my flesh of middle finger as the times go on. It means, the times of trying is limited and this project requires not only physical strength,but also super mental strength.
Like such a hard line, I was extremely moved when i sent it. I’m proud that i made FA of beautiful line having both no-Japanese like rock scale and no human like beta“.
Photo: (c) Saki