The 21-year-old Frenchman Loïc Zehani has secured the fourth ascent of „Aubade Direct“ 9a + in Sainte-Victoire. Loic needed 4 days for the 8c+/9a version in 2019 and 6 more days for the direct version this year. The route „Aubade Direct“ was originally graded 9a/+, but according to Anatole Bosio, Loïc Zehani also sees it more in grade 9a+.
„Very nice route bolted by Christophe Daconcecao more than 20 years ago and first red pointed by Gérome Pouvreau in September 2010. An easy and fast intro sequence followed by a hard and physical first section. Then after a bad rest, you have a nice hard section, very fingery and demanding climbing followed by a stunning grey wall, typical „Sainte victoire“. It took me 4 days in 2019 for the 8c+/9a version and 6 days more this year for the 9a+ version. This style of climb demanded a lot from me but I loved this route. So happy to climb this.“
The route was bolted more than 20 years ago by Christophe Daconcecao and first redpoint climbed by Gérome Pouvreau in September 2010.