Ryuichi Murai has just completed only his 8th ascent of the US top boulder „Sleepwalker“ in the „Red Rock“ climbing area in Nevada. It took the Japanese climber a total of eight days. He was able to climb all the moves on the second day. However, he has no plans to repeat the previously unrepeated „Return of the Sleepwalker„.
After 8days effort I managed to send it!!
I’m so happy to be able to climb the king line, which I’ve been longing for since I first watched @jwebxl and @dawoods89 climb on @mellowclimbing channel about four years ago.
On the other hand, the process to success was tough. I was able to do each move on day 2, but didn’t make much progress on days 3-6. Especially for me, who has a short wingspan, the deadpoint to the sloper was the hardest move, and I felt physically and mentally tough.
However, thanks to @nomura_shinichiro kind words, I did a so close try on the 7th day. Additionally, I found a new hold that makes more stable in the upper part, and success became realistic.
On the 8th day, it was the slightly warmer conditions. I had a good feeling of undercling, and I was able to hit the sloper from the start for the first time. After that, I was fell by slot hold twice, but I finally managed to climb it on the third hit. It was good to be in time just before the end of the tour.
Thanks @nate_williams01 for a lot of advice and pads! Good luck!
Ryuichi Murai now has four 8C+ boulder climbs to his credit, including his previously unrepeated boulder climbs United and Floatin.
The original boulder „Sleepwalker“ (8C+) in Black Velvet Canyon (Red Rocks) was considered the hardest boulder in the USA. First climbed in 2018 by Jimmy Webb, the boulder has only been repeated seven times.
Photo: (c) Momoka Oda
Respekt!
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