It’s also nice to write about our own activities. The one member of the Kletterblock team was once again on Bornholm. The island in the Baltic Sea, which belongs to Denmark, now offers over 900! routes and bouldering. However, it is not only the now large number of climbing possibilities that provides variety, but also the strict rules that require no bolts to be set on the cliffs. This is why Bornholm has a large number of challenging trad routes. To compensate, there are larger quarries, such as Moseløkken Stenbrud and Vangbruddet, where sport climbing is very good. Near the latter quarry is Almeløkkebruddet. So far, despite greater potential, only one sector, „Gryden“, has been developed in the break, with six sport climbing routes in grades from 4b to 6c. In the upper northern part there are also a few boulder routes.

We wanted to open some routes in the two bigger sectors below (Arena) and above (Manege) the road to „Vangbruddet“. Thanks to our Danish friends from Bornholms Klatreklub, especially Stefan Jacobsen and Kim Moltved), who sponsored the pitons, we were able to open nine sport climbing routes. All of them are well secured, but sometimes require a bit of courage. We especially recommend the routes „Gylden Skumkrone“ 6b in the Arena and the route „Stjernekryds“ 4a in the Manege sector. The routes/sectors are south-facing and thus offer a good target in winter and spring.

 

Almeløkkebruddet – Arena:
No. name FA Date Quality Protection Orientation Notes m
1 Almas Locken Alexander Marg & Torsten Schierz 02.06.2023 6a+ ++ South Entry mantle size dependent(5c-6c) 14
2 Fuldstændig Forkælet Alexander Marg & Torsten Schierz 02.06.2023 5a ++ South 12
3 Pisseline Alexander Marg & Torsten Schierz 02.06.2023 5c ++ South The hardestst move is at the lower off, otherwise 5b 12
4 Gylden Skumkrone Alexander Marg & Torsten Schierz 02.06.2023 6b * ++ South technically 12
5 Svane sø Alexander Marg & Torsten Schierz 02.06.2023 6a ++ South climbing ballett 12
Almeløkkebruddet – Manege:
No. name FA Date Quality Protection Orientation Notes m
1 Stjernediedre Torsten Schierz, Alexander Marg 02.06.2023 4a ** ++ South  

10
2 Myrestien Alexander Marg, Torsten Schierz 02.06.2023 5c ++ South 10
3 Dachl Alexander Marg, Torsten Schierz 02.06.2023 6a ++ South 10
4 Tornerosediedre Torsten Schierz, Alexander Marg 02.06.2023 3a ++ South 10

We would like to recommend the following articles on climbing on Bornholm.

Our area presentation: Gebietsvorstellung – Bornholm – Der Kletterblock
Route recommendations for Bornholm – Routenempfehlungen für Bornholm – Der Kletterblock

Literature for island climbing:
„Kletterführer Bornholm – Bornholm on the Rocks“ (to order at www.geoquest-verlag.de). At the beginning of 2020, the climbing guide was published in the 2nd greatly expanded edition!