It’s also nice to write about our own activities. The one member of the Kletterblock team was once again on Bornholm. The island in the Baltic Sea, which belongs to Denmark, now offers over 900! routes and bouldering. However, it is not only the now large number of climbing possibilities that provides variety, but also the strict rules that require no bolts to be set on the cliffs. This is why Bornholm has a large number of challenging trad routes. To compensate, there are larger quarries, such as Moseløkken Stenbrud and Vangbruddet, where sport climbing is very good. Near the latter quarry is Almeløkkebruddet. So far, despite greater potential, only one sector, „Gryden“, has been developed in the break, with six sport climbing routes in grades from 4b to 6c. In the upper northern part there are also a few boulder routes.
We wanted to open some routes in the two bigger sectors below (Arena) and above (Manege) the road to „Vangbruddet“. Thanks to our Danish friends from Bornholms Klatreklub, especially Stefan Jacobsen and Kim Moltved), who sponsored the pitons, we were able to open nine sport climbing routes. All of them are well secured, but sometimes require a bit of courage. We especially recommend the routes „Gylden Skumkrone“ 6b in the Arena and the route „Stjernekryds“ 4a in the Manege sector. The routes/sectors are south-facing and thus offer a good target in winter and spring.
|Almeløkkebruddet – Arena:|
|1||Almas Locken||Alexander Marg & Torsten Schierz||02.06.2023||6a+||++||South||Entry mantle size dependent(5c-6c)||14|
|2||Fuldstændig Forkælet||Alexander Marg & Torsten Schierz||02.06.2023||5a||++||South||12|
|3||Pisseline||Alexander Marg & Torsten Schierz||02.06.2023||5c||++||South||The hardestst move is at the lower off, otherwise 5b||12|
|4||Gylden Skumkrone||Alexander Marg & Torsten Schierz||02.06.2023||6b||*||++||South||technically||12|
|5||Svane sø||Alexander Marg & Torsten Schierz||02.06.2023||6a||++||South||climbing ballett||12|
|Almeløkkebruddet – Manege:|
|1||Stjernediedre||Torsten Schierz, Alexander Marg||02.06.2023||4a||**||++||South||
|2||Myrestien||Alexander Marg, Torsten Schierz||02.06.2023||5c||++||South||10|
|3||Dachl||Alexander Marg, Torsten Schierz||02.06.2023||6a||++||South||10|
|4||Tornerosediedre||Torsten Schierz, Alexander Marg||02.06.2023||3a||++||South||10|
We would like to recommend the following articles on climbing on Bornholm.
Our area presentation: Gebietsvorstellung – Bornholm – Der Kletterblock
Route recommendations for Bornholm – Routenempfehlungen für Bornholm – Der Kletterblock
Literature for island climbing:
„Kletterführer Bornholm – Bornholm on the Rocks“ (to order at www.geoquest-verlag.de). At the beginning of 2020, the climbing guide was published in the 2nd greatly expanded edition!