Loïc Zehani reports another very difficult first ascent with „Quartier Nord“ in his French home climbing area „Orgon“ in the sector „Bronx“. For Loïc, if the difficulty is confirmed, it was his fifth 9b route ever, after Brooklyn, „Harlem“ „Obsession“ and „Chikane“ . Harder graded Loïc his first ascent of „Mossoul“ as 9b/+. The route enters via „Brooklyn“ (9b) to then end at the „Le Bronx“ (8c+) lower off. After a difficult start (8B boulder), another hard boulder section follows (7C+) Loïc throws out a grade 9b for the route.

Wednesday October 18
First try of the day: I did the first crux (approximately 8b boulder) for the 3rd time in my life. Then the second crux (approximately 7c+ boulder). I find myself at the decontraction of “Bronx”, normally at this level in the route it’s good for me. But with the stress I still pushed myself! Super happy to clip the chain, big cries of joy then disillusionment…
The tripod that filmed my ascent had fallen due to the wind. 

After a phase of disappointment, I decided to try to do the route again, telling myself that it would be great “training” for resistance.
After a good hour of rest, I carefully place the phone in my car (protected from the wind ) to film.
I go through the first crux with more difficulty then the second crux. I’m undoubtedly worse than during the first ascent but I’m so angry that I’m going out!!
And for the second time in an hour I successfully send the route (filmed this time).

I can let my joy explode a second time after a somewhat mixed summer, hampered by health problems from May to July.
Now I have an even bigger goal, which is to do the same first extreme part then some « connection » part to finish with a super hard final wall (around 9a) with very droppable and hard moves.
This would give a horror of 80 movements which would accumulate a small 9b and a 9a without rest…
We will see but the road is still long.

Photo: Samantha Ducos