It’s been a while, but it’s still worth mentioning. Jakob Schubert has now also completed an ascent of the legendary route „Qui“ (9a+) on Geisterschmiedwand near Kufstein in Tyrol.
„Enjoying the amazing fall back home. Last week I was able to send ‚Qui‘ [9a+] an old time classic opened by @derwandmacher in 1996.
I‘ve tried it quite a bit last year but one hold in the crux would never dry up. This season it was finally dry and I surprised myself with a second go send.
Two days later I once again teamed up with my longtime friend @wilhelmheiko to free one of his projects in Ötztal – ‚Tanz der Zeit‘ [~8c+] another amazing addition to this valley, thanks so much for showing me Heiko. On to the next one, psyche is so high“
The route was first climbed by Stefan Fürst in 1996! and was not repeated until 2019. Stefan originally graded it 8c+. However, the route may have become more difficult due to a break in the hold. The two other repeaters Adam Ondra and Roland Hemetzberger would even classify it as 9a+ rather than 9a. Jakob, who is known for rather hard classifications, has also
The „Qui“ route is the direct exit to „Wagnis Orange“ by Gehard Hörhager. The „Wagnis Orange“ route was first climbed by Gerhard in 1988 and was probably the second 8c route in the world after „Wallstreet“ in the Frankenjura.
Photo (c): Misha_P (@misha.p_photography)
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Ich reiche hiermit die fehlende Quelle des Direktzitats nach: https://kayakandclimb.blogspot.com/2023/11/free-karma-on-half-dome.html?m=1