Adam Ondra nutzte seine freie Zeit zwischen den Lead-Weltcup in Kranj und den Europameisterschaften in Edinburgh um sich eines alten Projektes anzunehmen. So konnte er die Route „Qui“ an Geisterschmiedwand bei Kufstein in Tirol endlich eine Begehung abringen, nachdem er sich schon 2008 in der Route probiert hatte. Die Route wurde von Stefan Fürst im Jahr 1996! erstbegangen und wurde seitdem nicht wiederholt. Stefan hatte sie ursprünglich mit 8c+ eingestuft. Durch einen Griffausbruch dürfte die Route schwerer geworden sein. Adam würde sie sogar eher mit 9a+ als mit 9a einstufen. „Qui“ist der Direktausstieg zu „Wagnis Orange“ von Gehard Hörhager. Die Route wurde von Gerhard 1988 erstbegangen und war vermutlich nach „Wallstreet“ im Frankenjura die vermutlich zweite 8c-Route der Welt.
„Last two weeks I have been preparing for the upcoming World Cup in Kranj and the European Championship in Edinburg in lead. As the only short-term goal is only lead and the character of lead climbing is still relatively close to rock climbing, I took the advantage of climbing on the rock last few days. On Thursday I finally repeated my nightmare route – Qui 9a or 9a+ in Geisterschmiedwand, Tyrol, Austria. It was first ascended by Stefan Fürst @derwandmacher back in 1996 and had not been repeated since then! The route is hard. It climbs most of the hard part of Wagnis Orange (8c, FA @geriroc Gerhard Hörhager 1988 – possibly world’s second 8c), then bad rest and followed by brutal crux featuring huge wide moves on tiny sidepulls. I would say 8c into 8A boulderproblem. I first tried in 2008 and I had been coming back repeatedly over the last years, but never suceeding in repeating the route. I never had more consecutive days, always one day trying and then almost one year break. After spending over 10 days over the last 10 years, this time it finally came together. It was even more special as Stefan was on the other side of the rope belaying!
Regarding the grade, it is really hard to tell. One hold and at least one foothold have probably broken since Stefan’s ascent, but honestly I do not really think it has changed that much. Stefan gave it a 9a back in a day, I think the current state is closer to 9a+ even though the crux is very special and morphological. No matter how hard the route was in state of Stefan’s ascent, it could have been one hardest route at that moment and it took over 60 days fro Stefan to complete. The ascent was captured for another RTT episode, to be released in 9 days!“
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