The 21-year-old Frenchman Loïc Zehani has secured the fourth ascent of „Aubade Direct“ 9a + in Sainte-Victoire. Loic needed 4 days for the 8c+/9a version in 2019 and 6 more days for the direct version this year. The route „Aubade Direct“ was originally graded 9a/+, but according to Anatole Bosio, Loïc Zehani also sees it more in grade 9a+.

„Very nice route bolted by Christophe Daconcecao more than 20 years ago and first red pointed by Gérome Pouvreau in September 2010. An easy and fast intro sequence followed by a hard and physical first section. Then after a bad rest, you have a nice hard section, very fingery and demanding climbing followed by a stunning grey wall, typical „Sainte victoire“. It took me 4 days in 2019 for the 8c+/9a version and 6 days more this year for the 9a+ version. This style of climb demanded a lot from me but I loved this route. So happy to climb this.“

The route was bolted more than 20 years ago by Christophe Daconcecao and first redpoint climbed by Gérome Pouvreau in September 2010.

https://youtu.be/1_W_sO9OAPQ