William Bosi, who has been more of a boulderer lately, has open new top route on his home island with „Free at Last“ (9a+). The route is located in the Dumberton climbing crag west of Glasgow in Scotland.

The route goes through the free wall to the right of „Requiem“ (E8 6c). the route first climbed in 1983 by the Scotsman Dave Cuthbertson and at that time was one of the hardest climbs in the world. Dave Macleod added a direct exit in early 2006 and the trad climb Rhapsody (E11 7a), then as now one of the hardest trad climbs in the world.

The route „Free at last“ offers about 15 meters of technical climbing with an 8B+/8C boulder crux and if confirmed by repeaters, is the hardest sport climb in Scotland. It was bolted in a long time ago, but didn’t get serious attention until 2014, when Dave Macleod and Alan Cassidy invested some time in the route and re-bolted it.  Bosit ried the route a few times in the past, but didn’t make a serious effort to climb through until this year. Now, after seven sessions he climb the route.

„Incredibly happy to get the first ascent of this amazing line at Dumbarton!!! After spending so much time here adding my own fa is really special.“ 

Will made a splash last spring with the first ascent of „King Capella“ (9b+). In the meantime, the route has been repeated by Alexander Megos and Jakob Schubert and downgraded to at least 9b/+.

Photo: (c) Band of Birds