Wie schon berichtet, versuchte sich Seb Bouin nach ersten Wiederholung der Adam Ondra Route „Iron Curtain“ aus dem Jahr 2013, an dem Megaprojekt in der Hanshallarenhöhle in Flatanger (Norwegen). Die Routenkombination aus „Nordic Plumber“ 8c und „Thor’s Hammer“ (2. SL) 9a+ als Ausstieg über das komplette Höhlendach erfordert eine gehörige Kraftausdauer bei 130 Meter! Routenlänge. Aber Seb ist ja ein Spezialist für lange Sportkletterrouten und konnte nun das Projekt beenden und „Nordic Marathon“ 9b/+ erstbegehen.
Der enorme Seilzug der Route zwang Seb Bouin neben einem Seilwechsel, noch zu einem kleinem Abenteue. So musste Seb kurz vor dem Ende den Einbindenoten lösen und die letzten fünf bis zehn Meter seilfrei klettern. Die Kletterei beim Ausstieg aus der Head Wall sei aber wirklich leicht, meinte Seb Bouin dazu.
Sebastien wird sich sicherlich noch in der viel schwereren Variante mit „Move“ 9b/+ als Start versuchen. Ein weiteres potentielles 9c-Projekt…
Die Idee für diese Route hatte er von Adam Ondra, dem zweiten „Hausmeister“ in der Höhle.
When Adam told me about his project to cross over the cave, and go from the ground to the summit, I was immediately amazed by this idea.
The main goal of my trip was to check out this monster.
The idea was big, really big. But it’s definitely the kind of challenge which attracts me.
As I explained in my previous post, there are three possible starting routes, each offering a different grade. Starting with:
Nordic Plumber 8c
Thor’s Hammer 9a
Move 9b/+
Whatever the start, it is then followed by a cruxy 9a+ (Pitch 2 of Thor’s Hammer), with a repoint crux at the end (at 80m).
My ultimate goal would be to do it by the hardest possible combination: Move.
In the previous years, I already spent four travels to do Move (9b/+). Imagine starting from this one and finishing by a cruxy 9a+…
However, I knew this would be too hard for a single trip. So first I decided to start from the easiest line (Nordic Plumber 8c) in order to get an idea of the challenge, and to be psychologically ready for the end when I start trying the harder version.
After first working and sending the second (9a+) section by jumarring into it, I then started trying from the ground, trying to link into it from Nordic Plumber.
It changed so much the end. Coming into the 9a+, with my arms already so pumped in the last crimpy crux after 80m of climbing was insane.
I was falling there a few times. And then falling on the previous cruxes as well.
The sheer size of the route makes it hard mentally. You can have one go every two days. It’s so much climbing, in one intense burst that you simply can’t give two goes in a day. Then if you want to be as fresh as possible, you need a rest day in between.
So it was quite hard psychologically to only give it one burn every two days.
The pressure felt so high in this last crux.
The rope drag was also insane. Even if I had already switched ropes once during the route – I had to untie my knot and free-solo the last 5/10 meters (really easy climbing)
Nordic Marathon is my pure climbing style. Endurance, big moves,…
The line attracted me by its size.
Thanks Adam Ondra for sharing this idea.
Foto (c): Marco Müller
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Ich reiche hiermit die fehlende Quelle des Direktzitats nach: https://kayakandclimb.blogspot.com/2023/11/free-karma-on-half-dome.html?m=1
Please contact Tobias Wolf via https://kayakandclimb.blogspot.com/ Cheers Gabi
Hi ! well done for the FFA of Charliberté !! I'm looking for a really good picture of this area…