Ale Zeni sends the first ascent of „Energia cosmica“ 9a + (?) at the crag Bilico in the Canali valley in the dolomites. He bolted the route one year ago and needed 62 attempts in 20 days for the successful ascent. The slab climbing is located next to his home. He classified the route more difficult as „Bain de sang“ 9a and „Bimba luna“ 9a / + a in Saint Loup, Switzerland.

Ale means: „“Energia cosmica” is the name of the route that I had bolted one years ago in the Bilico’s crag in the Canali valley (Dolomites). This place is simply wonderful and is near my home into the mountains, for go there you have to walk for hour and twenty minutes but all the routes are amazing and is perfect if you like the slab cimbing. Now the crag have 7 routes from 8a to 9a+.
My favorite climbing style is the slab and “energia cosmica” it’s become my hardest slab route ever, a lot more difficult than “Bain de Sang” 9a and “Bimba luna” 9a/+ (Saint Loup, Swiss) that I had done in 2017 in few attempts. For this route I do somthing like 60 attempts and 20 days on the route and I think that could be my first 9a+. I hope that one day someone try to do the first repetition.
I’m very happy to have completed this challenge, the perfect slab in the perfect place with the perfect rock!“