Sachi Amma with ‚Rise‘ (9a +) reports a 30 m new route in Shirakabe (Japan). Originally, he bolted a direct line with 17 bolts could this but do not climb, so he had link after 7 bolts into the route of „Akirameruna“. A route for which it proposes still 9a + came out anyway. We wait for time, the original project is how difficult he further try it.
„This route is in Shirakabe Face area, 30m long almost vertical with 16 bolts. I bolted original line this April but it was too difficult for me. So I made a connection to the route “Akirameruna” (No Surrender, from Kenji Iiyama 7c+). Original part is 7 bolts, about 20 moves of hard 8b+ then you directly go to a 4 moves 8A+ before continuing into “Akirameruna”. Crux move is from two micro crimps to far under cling. The wall is vertical so you need to be strong on your finger and sensitive for the movement. I started working from ground from middle of October but kept falling at the crux move. After about 25 days of working on it, I finally stuck that move on beautiful sunny, cold and windy day in this November 15th. It was beautiful days with Autumn leaves. In Japanese, Kanji, Climb(登) and Rise(昇) are same pronunciation. We normally use Climb(登) for climbing. But I found that if you are really into the climbing, you are out of control by yourself. I think it is not climb but rise. This route taught me this. I would love to finish the original line in near future. So many things to climb in Japan!“