Alex Huber, half a century old end of this year. Alex succeeded in the Tyrol now on the „Elephant belly“ on on the south walls between Waidring and Lofer:, the 200 -meter first ascent „Wandläufer“ (6c, 7a, 6c +, 8a +, 8b +, 6c). Alex was able to climb all the pitches solo Rotpunkt.

Alex came into the spotlight for the first time in 1992, when he was able to open the world’s second (XI / 9a) route with „Om“. In 1995, the first redpoint walk followed the „Salathé“ at El Capitan in Yosemite National Park. A year later, Alex „Open Air (XI + / 9a +)“ at the Schleierwasserfall in Tyrol was able to climb the world’s first 9a + route in the world. The route has so far been repeated only once by Adam Ondra, who upgraded the route originally rated by Alex with 9a. Then followed the first ascent of the western wall of the Latok II together with brother Thomas, the Munich Toni Gutsch and the American Conrad Anker and in 1998 the ascent of the 8188 meter high Cho Oyu (Himalayas).

Thenext years was marked by the El Capitan with the new tours „El Niño“ (5.13b), „Free Rider“ (5.12d), „Golden Gate“ (5.13a), „El Corazon“ (5.13b) and 2003 the first redpoint ascent of the „Zodiac“ (5.13d).

In between, followed by the winter first ascent of Bellavista (7b / A4) on the north wall of the „Westlichen Zinne“ in the dolomites solo, which he then also free climbed (8c / XI-). Alex was also very successful on Free Solo, with the „Hasse-Brandler-Direttissima“ at the „Großen Zinne“ in the dolomites , the Swiss route (6b +) on the ascent and descent and the „Communist“ (X+/8b +) at the Schleierwasserfall.

Alex was no later than most of the turn of the century mostly Alpine on the road. Here a small selection list:

  • „Nirvana“ (8B +) on the Sonnwendwand, Loferer Steinplatte
  • „Bavarian direct“ (5.13 b) on the mount Asgard, Buffin Iceland in Canada with Thomas Huber and Mario Walder
  • „Wetterbockwand“ (8c, 10 lengths of rope) to the high Gabriel with Michael Althammer on 18 September 2014
  • „Il Capitano“ (8B +) and „Solemar“ (8a) on the Capo di Monte Santo in the Supramonte, Sardinia
  • „Western Wall“ of the Panmah Kangri (6046 m), Karakoram, Pakistan, Mario Walder and Dani Arnold
  • 1. Redpoint „Sueños de Invierno“ (540 m, 8a) on the Naranjo de Bulnes with Fabi Buhl „Carpe diem“ (5.11a)
  • „Swiss nose“ (VII + / A4) on the Matterhorn north face with Dani Arnold and Thomas Senf
  • „La Grande Rouge“ (8B) to the Tadrarate, Taghia in the High Atlas in Morocco with Fabi Buhl

Keep it up Alex! And stay healthy.
















Foto: (c) Heinz Zak