The austrian climber Karo Sinnhuber has had a very productive trip in boulder area Ticino in Switzerland doing three 7c’s and eight 8A’s out of which ‘La persistencia de la memoria’ (8A+) and Pamplemousse 8A sticks out.
Here her report from this successful trip:
“The annual Ticino trip was just around the corner, with perfect weather for the 11 days I spent there. But hey, honestly it couldn’t get much worse than last year Of course I made myself a (way too long) ticklist, like every time I go on a trip. My expectations were high, because I spent really a lot of time training in the gym, making double sessions and trying to avoid every sickness. Well, that avoiding thing didn’t work out as I thought it would and I ended up with antibiotics and a week of little climbing. Anyhow, seems like it didn’t distract me too much from sending a lot of amazing problems.
A gem in Brione is the boulder called „Entwash“ 8A, which starts with a t-rex compression on slopers and afterwards a fancy foot kick to the right. Really recommended problem!
Frogger is a really really steep roof (around 60 or 65 degrees?) where I had some struggles with the first 2 moves. After sticking the 2nd move for the first time I luckily went straight through to the top.
Think it was the coldest day when I tried this one, 4 degrees and a freezing breeze made it pretty uncomfy and I was def glad about my primaloft pants hahaha.
Right next to Frogger is „Fake Pampelmousse“ which is not really the style of climbing I am best in. The first move is a long undercling bump to a sloper (picture), followed by a t-rex compression where your feet cut loose.
Another cold and windy day at Chironico (yes, leggings double layer). This was the best day of the trip for me, sending 2 8A (Persistencia della Memoria and Le Pilier) and 2 7C (The real Shield and Pocket Problem). La persistencia is kinda endurance problem, with a tricky topout on a slab you shouldn’t underestimate!
Tried that one last year when it was raining and snowing, because it was the only semi-dry boulder. I couldn’t stick one move due to a too far away heel-toe cam, that makes me even more happy about the send (and my new beta).
On my „restday“ I went with the others to Cresciano and just had to try with them. The move on the picture is pretty far, but when you stick it and release your left hand you get the most amazing swing move ever.
Balu der Bär is the right/straight exit, Jungle Book goes out to the left. In my opinion „Jungle Book“ is a really hard and reachy 8A, I didn’t look that good in it.
Alphane Moon is a typical crimpy boulder. I didn’t do the right heel beta, it just didn’t work for me haha. Found another way with a left toe squeezer in a pocket, but I’m not sure if the move got easier haha
One of the best looking problems is definitely „Real Pampelmousse“ in Brione. But people, why do u chip holds?! Take the boulders as they are…
On our last day we went to Cresciano. Unfortunately it got super hot again, but while walking back to the car we went by „Kirk Windstein“ and it looked so amazingly crimpy, I had to give it a few tries before going back home to snowy Innsbruck. It went down quick, definitely have to go back for the sit, maybe with dryer skin or cooler temps!
Thanks guys for being an awesome crew, for a lot of laughers and a lot of good food and chocolate. Onto the next trip!
All in all I sent 8 8A’s and 3 7C’s. Really syked to try some harder stuff next time! Maybe in February? Anyone there around 11th feb?