Swiss alpinists Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli were the first to successfully climb “Silberrücken,” a new route on the west face of the Rotbrätt on Jungfrau in June 2019. She decided to establish a new route on Rotbrätt on Jungfrau in the Bernese Alps in the winter of 2017. There was only one established other route in the left part of the wall so far. The center of the face is steep and hard with some passages where protection can only be placed sparsely. Siegrist und Schaeli began their endeavor in 2018. They chose the steepest part in Rotbrätt since it was the only spot that was dry and free of snow after a winter that saw much precipitation. The two alpinists were able to establish their route second try due to adverse weather conditions. Nine pitches in great rock on the impressive Rotbrätt of the Jungfrau were now waiting for a redpoint ascent.
A year later, in the summer of 2019, Siegrist and Schaeli gave the redpoint a try together with photographer and friend Frank Kretschmann. The weather was stable, and their climb was the only spot on Rotbrätt that was dry. Both climbers were able to free the first pitches. But the fifth pitch is extremely steep and hard. After Schaeli was able to redpoint the pitch after he put up a hard fight the actual crux of the route begins. The sixth pitch boasts a boulder problem in the middle of the route. The terrain is very overhanging and protection bad. This is where the team spirit and deep friendship of the two climbers came into play. They both decided on a rest day where they were royally pampered with amazing food by photographer and base camp cook Frank Kretschmann. The next day Schaeli was able to redpoint the sixth and hardest pitch while he was being cheered on by his two friends. After two more and easier pitches Schaeli and Siegrist stood atop the Rotbrätt. It was done! The only second and hardest climb to date on Rotbrätt received a redpoint after four days.
First ascent: „Silberrücken“, west face of Rotbrätt on Jungfrau, difficulty: 8a+, 350 meters
Preparation: 2009 Stephan Siegrist, Giovanni Quirici, 2018 route established by Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
First ascent of the entire route in summer 2018 by Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli. First redpoint in June 2019 by Roger Schaeli with Stephan Siegrist
Character: High-alpine multi-pitch route in the west face of Rotbrätt in the Jungfrau, Bernese Alps, Switzerland.
Text: (c) Stephan Siegrist und Roger Schäli
Photos: copyright by Frank Kretschmann