Buster Martin has done his first 9a+, First Ley in Margalef. It was the 7th ascent of „First Ley“ in the Spanish climbing area Margalef . He is just one of two Britons to climb a 9a+ route. He fought 11 months in the route until finally he managed the route. The route was first ascented in 2011 by Chris Sharma.

„Here’s the footage of me climbing First Ley 9a+ yesterday! By far the hardest thing I’ve climbed. Honestly the more I climb the less grades motivate. Although 9a+ has always stood out as a big goal for me. It’s just a number but was the hardest in the world when I started climbing. A grade I saw as reserved for the pros, the likes of @chris_sharma and @ste_mcclure (who is the only other Brit to climb a route confirmed at the grade). It wasn’t the external validation or comparison to others that inspired me. But the committment and passion it seemed to take to climb at this level. That’s what motivated me to try! I’m sure most climbers can relate. As soon as I got on the route I was hooked, the grade didn’t matter and I’d found the opponent for the battle id always wanted. 

Upon topping out I felt a perspective and gratitude for the 11 month journey it took me to get there. Applying, dedicating myself and pushing through personal barriers in the same way that has always inspired me. In the end that was the real pleasure. Pushing myself and spending time in nice places with good people. It’s completely trivial and selfish but I can’t get enough…. Onto the next on.“

Photo: (c) Henry Kinman