The currently best French climber Seb Bouin could only secure his first repeat of „Panatics“ in Rodellar. Now Seb sends the fourth ascent of „No pain no gain“ in the same sector. He already knew the crux of the route from his ascent of „Panatics“. For „No pain no gain“ Seb needed only three goes and would downgraded the route to 9a ;-). Actually, Seb plan to spend his time in „Apocalipsis de la gioconda“ in the Museo sector. But unfortunately the wet and cold weather put a stop to his ideas. The route was opened in August this year by Jonathan Flor.
I did this route on my third go two days ago. I knew the end from „Patanics“. Original plan was to go in Museo sector to try the 9b / 5.15b „apocalipsis de la gioconda“ free climbed by Jonathan Flor. Yet, cold and humid weather came and pertube the plan. About the grade of No pain no gain, to be in accordance with the other routes I did in Rodellar, 9a / 5.14d could be a good option for me. I guess it’s time to move from rodellar and prepar myself for the upcoming project.
Photo: (c) Julia Cassou-Photography