Bouin climb with „Realization“ another extreme classic in his homeland as part of his „Vintage Rock Tour“ . It was the 19th ascent of the route which Margo Hayes has the first and alone female ascent. The route „Biography / Realization“ was started by Chris Sharma in 2001 and is located in the French climbing area Ceüse. For the French, the route is only called „biography“ because it is only an extension of the route, but an extension. In this respect, actually something of its own and you just don’t have to understand some things. For a long time, the route was considered the first route in grade 9a +, until the „Openair“ route was repeated and upgraded by Adam Ondra.
When you got this jug.
After falling three times after the upper crux, I am happy to send this historical blue line.
It was my first „real“ trip to Ceuse. I climbed few „weekends when I was younger, and then I never came back.
I had other projects for this periods of the year. And I guess as the climbing style is not really what I am use to do, I was more psyche to go where I felt strong.
I am more from the big overhangs and steep stuff with tufas and sloppers.
I had to adapt myself to this crag and these little open pockets. It took me some times to find the flow. But at the end I loved this process. It was something new for me.
It was a good challenge to include Ceuse and Biographie as first French and world 9a+ (5.15a) in my Vintage Rock Tour.“
Soon thereport in my third episode of the Vintage Rock Tour.
Photo: (c) Sam Bie